Cool and creamy, panna cotta is the perfect summer custard. Unlike its cousins, flan and crème caramel, it's an eggless custard, which makes it easier to prepare. There's no worry about curdling; no need for a double boiler or water bath; no baking. Thanks to powdered gelatin, it's a simple preparation that yields a melt-in-the-mouth, silken texture.

EVANS CAGLAGE/DMN; styling by LISA VEIGEL/Staff Designer; food styling by TINA DANZE/Special Contributor; plate: Stanley Korshak

Panna cotta, an eggless Italian custard traditionally steeped with cinnamon and lemon zest, is delicious with fresh strawberries.

The key is not using too much gelatin, Dallas pastry chef David Brawley says. "You want just enough gelatin so that when you unmold it, it won't fall apart. That way, it melts in your mouth instantly, and your tongue gets those flavors immediately."

Although panna cotta is a traditional Italian dessert, it has undergone some changes on this side of the Atlantic. Mr. Brawley says a soft, melting texture wasn't always the standard.

"The original recipes were like hockey pucks. But, even in Italy, they've started lightening up on the gelatin," he says.

Like flan, a traditional panna cotta is made in a caramel-filmed mold. But many chefs skip the caramel and opt for a fruit garnish. Some even forgo the molded presentation for stemware. This recipe from chef Brawley can be adapted to suit your flavor and serving preferences.

Tina Danze is a Dallas freelance writer.

PANNA COTTA

Mix gelatin with water, and set aside.

Place cinnamon, lemon peel, milk and cream into saucepan and scald over medium heat. Stir frequently to avoid scorching. Remove from heat, cover pan and allow flavorings to steep for 5 minutes. Stir in gelatin until completely melted. Stir in condensed milk. Pour liquid through fine mesh strainer or cheesecloth to remove solids, and let liquid cool to room temperature.

Spray the inside of 8 (6-ounce) molds or custard cups with nonstick cooking spray (if you plan to unmold panna cotta). Divide liquid between molds or cups. Refrigerate until set (about 2 hours).

May be served in the cups or unmolded onto a serving plate. To unmold, run a knife around the edge, then dip the mold in hot water. Place serving plate over mold, turn mold and plate upside-down. Lift mold off panna cotta. Garnish with fresh strawberries. Makes 8 to 10 servings.

Optional: Drizzle strawberries with balsamic vinegar.

PER SERVING: Calories 617 (72% fat) Fat 50 g (31 g sat) Cholesterol 186 mg Sodium 136 mg Fiber 1 g Carbohydrates 34 g Protein 10 g

Variations

Orange-saffron: Substitute half an orange peel for the lemon peel, and 1/4 teaspoon saffron for the cinnamon.

Rosemary-lemon: Substitute the leaves of 1 or 2 rosemary sprigs for the cinnamon.

Alternate fruit garnish: Serve with sliced peaches macerated in prosecco (Italian sparkling wine).